Exploring Colombian Cacao Through Cacao Macondo
- Caterina Gallo
- 22 hours ago
- 11 min read
Cacao, native to the tropical rainforests of South America, remains one of the world’s most economically and culturally significant agricultural crops. The regions bordering Colombia, Peru, and Brazil are considered among the principal centers of cacao genetic diversity, suggesting that northwestern Amazonia played a fundamental role in the evolutionary history and diversification of the species. Beyond its importance to chocolate production, it is a crucial source of income for rural communities.
Within this context, Colombia occupies a particularly significant position within the global fine-flavor sector and currently ranks among the world’s major cocoa-producing countries. It is internationally recognized for the exceptional quality, with approximately 95% of its exports classified by the International Cocoa Organization as fine-flavor cacao, a remarkably high percentage compared to most cacao-producing countries worldwide. This reputation derives not only from post-harvest practices and traditional cultivation systems, but also from the remarkable genetic diversity preserved within Colombian cacao populations.
Historically, Colombian cacao production has been constrained by low productivity, aging plantations, disease incidence, and the extensive use of limited genetic material in commercial cultivation. These challenges spurred the development of national germplasm conservation programs to preserve native cacao diversity while supporting breeding strategies focused on disease resistance, productivity, and flavor excellence. In recent decades, Colombia has increasingly invested in renovating cacao plantations through grafting, vegetative propagation, and the introduction of improved genetic materials that enhance both bean grade and farming efficiency.
Genetic Diversity and Colombian Criollo Populations
Recent molecular studies on Colombian cacao populations have revealed extraordinary levels of genetic diversity. Four principal genetic clusters have been identified within Colombian cacao collections. Among these, the Criollo group emerged as the most genetically differentiated population, while the remaining clusters displayed high levels of admixture involving genetic material from Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Costa Rica, Trinidad, and Venezuela. This extensive introgression reflects the complex evolutionary and agricultural history of cacao in northern South America and highlights the remarkable diversity preserved within the region's germplasm collections.
Particularly significant is the presence of genetically distinct local Criollo accessions, mainly distributed in the northern regions of the country. These accessions consistently clustered with international Criollo reference populations, confirming the presence of authentic Colombian Criollo genotypes!
Genetics, Flavor Quality, and Fine Flavor Cacao
The majority of Colombian cacao belongs to Trinitario and intermediate genetic groups, both recognized for producing highly aromatic varieties with balanced sensory profiles. Biochemical analyses focusing on theobromine, caffeine, and polyphenol content further supported the association between genotype and flavor characteristics. The ratio of theobromine to caffeine, commonly used as an indicator of cacao type and quality, suggested a predominance of Trinitario and fine-flavor genotypes within the region's germplasm.
Genetic analyses also demonstrated that several clusters were composed predominantly or exclusively of Colombian accessions, marking Colombia as one of the most important centers of cacao diversification.
Colombian accessions were distributed across multiple phylogenetic groups, suggesting that Colombian germplasm preserves a broad representation of cacao evolutionary diversity and potentially unique genetic backgrounds not fully represented elsewhere.
This exceptional diversity constitutes a strategic resource for conservation programs and the future development of resilient, high-quality varieties.
Sustainability, Traceability, and the Future of Colombian Cacao
The growing international demand for traceable, specialty cacao has further increased the strategic value of Colombian cacao production. Over the last decade, the region has significantly expanded its presence in the international cacao trade, increasing bean exports while consolidating access to premium markets across North America and Europe. At the same time, the crop yield has increasingly been associated with sustainable agriculture, lower deforestation rates, and rural development initiatives compared to other major producing countries.
In recent years, cacao cultivation has also acquired an important socio-economic role within Colombia’s post-conflict rural transformation strategies. National and international initiatives such as Cacao for Peace and the Cocoa Forest Peace Initiative have promoted cacao production as a sustainable alternative to illicit crops while supporting biodiversity conservation, forest protection, and economic opportunities for rural communities. These programs have helped position Colombian cacao not only as a premium agricultural product but also as a symbol of sustainable development and social reconstruction.
Altogether, the genetic, biochemical, economic, and environmental evidence demonstrate that Colombia constitutes a unique reservoir of biodiversity with major implications for conservation, breeding programs, sustainability, and the future development of premium cacao production.
The Journey of Cacao Macondo
As Colombian cacao continues to gain international recognition for its genetic diversity, fine-flavor potential, and traceable origin, a new generation of producers is redefining how cacao is cultivated and presented to the world. Among these emerging projects is Cacao Macondo, a family-run initiative based near Quimbaya, in the department of Quindío, at the heart of Colombia’s Eje Cafetero.
Founded on the transformation of a former coffee plantation into a fine-flavor cacao farm, Cacao Macondo reflects a broader shift taking place across regions historically associated with coffee production. As parts of Colombia’s coffee sector entered a period of economic decline, cacao increasingly emerged as an alternative that combines agricultural sustainability, premium quality, and a stronger connection to origin.
The project focuses exclusively on the cultivation and commercialization of cacao fino de aroma, with a particular emphasis on direct relationships with chocolate makers in the United States. Central to the company’s philosophy is the idea of traceability: maintaining a transparent supply chain in which crop lots are never mixed and every bean can be connected directly to its place of origin.
At the same time, they place strong emphasis on agroforestry, biodiversity, and environmentally conscious farm management practices.
In many ways, they represent a contemporary expression of the direction in which Colombian fine-flavor cacao is evolving — combining genetics, terroir, traceability, and craftsmanship within a model increasingly centered on quality, transparency, and direct connection between producer and chocolate maker.
Interview with Alejandro De Angulo, Founder of Cacao Macondo
Q: Could you tell me the story behind Cacao Macondo and how the project began?
Alejandro De Angulo: Cacao Macondo began as a family project to produce the finest Colombian cacao. As a family, we share a deep connection with the Colombian countryside and the life it offers. As the coffee industry in Colombia began its decline, many farms became run-down and neglected. We saw an opportunity to acquire a 32-acre property in El Eje Cafetero and transform it into a fine-flavor, fine-aroma cacao farm.
Q: What inspired you to transform a former coffee farm into a cacao farm?
Alejandro De Angulo: The inspiration came from a growing passion for cacao as a way of life. Cacao and chocolate production have a certain charm and allure that truly connect with us. Additionally, as Colombia's coffee industry began to decline, we considered cacao a phenomenal alternative with tremendous potential in El Eje Cafetero, a region currently seeking a new agricultural identity.
Q: Where is Finca Macondo located, and what makes the region unique for cacao cultivation?
Alejandro De Angulo: The farm is located near the town of Quimbaya in the state of Quindío, in the heart of El Eje Cafetero. It sits in the foothills at approximately 1,200 meters above sea level, which is at the high end of cacao production altitudes. We believe this location provides the luminosity and environmental conditions conducive to producing fine flavor cacao.
Q: Which cacao varieties do you cultivate at Cacao Macondo?
Alejandro De Angulo: We currently cultivate four certified fine flavor varieties. Each one has its own sensory profile, productivity level, and agronomic behavior. Some are dominated by fruity and floral notes, while others express stronger cacao, nutty, or herbal characteristics.
ICS 1 (Imperial College Selection 1)
Flavor profile: High cacao notes. Low bitterness and astringency. High
in fruity notes. Low in floral notes.
Bean appearance: Small, round beans. Mid-maroon interior.
Productivity: Low. ~1,000 kg/hectare.
Growth habit and management: This is a tall-growing tree. It requires
pruning to reduce its height, since it grows aggressively.
FSV 1 (Federación San Vicente 1)
Flavor profile: Some cacao notes. Low bitterness and astringency. Very
balanced flavor profile dominated by soft chocolate taste and dried
fruits.
Bean appearance: Large, kidney-shaped beans. Dark maroon interior.
Productivity: Medium. ~1,400 kg/hectare.
Growth habit and management: Characterized by branches with small
diameters. Requires pruning that will strengthen branches due to their
small diameter.
FSV 41 (Federación San Vicente 41)
Flavor profile: High in cacao notes. Low bitterness and astringency.
High in fruity notes with some nutty notes. Very aromatic and soft on the
palate.
Bean appearance: Large, kidney-shaped beans. Light maroon interior.
Productivity: High. ~1,700 Kg/hectare.
Growth habit and management: Needs to be managed within an
agroforestry system, allowing the tree to have better conditions during
the dry season. Requires a higher humidity percentage, reducing
evapotranspiration. Requires a nutritional plan focused on meeting the
tree’s nutritional requirements during critical stages, which are fruit set
and fruit fill.
FEAR 5 (Federación Arauquita 5)
Flavor profile: High in cacao notes. Low bitterness and astringency.
Medium fruity notes with low floral notes. High in fresh herb notes.
Very high content of anthocyanins, leading to pleasant notes in
chocolate beverages.
Bean appearance: Small, short bean. Dark maroon interior.
Productivity: High. ~1,700 kg/hectare.
Growth habit and management: Its management differs because the
tree’s architecture shows greater decumbency. Requires constant
pruning. Nutritionally, it is not very demanding.
Q: Which trees do you use in your agroforestry system?
Alejandro De Angulo:
Handroanthus chrysanthus: Yellow Ipe
Cordia alliadora: Spanish elm
Bauhinia picta: Painted Bauhinia
Jacaranda mimosifolia: Blue Jacaranda
Senna spectabilis: Showy Senna
Pisidium guajava: Guava
Annona muricata: Soursop
Bixa Orellana: Annatto
Artocarpus heterophyllus: Jackfruit
Anacardium excelsum: Wild Cashew
Trichanthera gigantea: Nacedero
Tecoma stans: Yellow Trumpetbush
Leucaena: Leucaena
Croton gessypiifolius: Bloodleaf croton
Ceratonia Siliqua: Carob Tree
Cedrela odorata: Spanish cedar
Eriobotrya Japonica: Loquat
Citrus spp: Multiple citrus species
Q: Do you work with other professionals in the area (e.g., other farmers)?
Alejandro De Angulo: We currently have an association with three other farms: Finca La Kirika, Finca La Julia, and Finca El Socorro. We work very closely with Cesar Patiño, a cacao agronomist and one of the most brilliant minds in cacao production, and with Edwin Calderon, who is an Agro-industrial engineer and chocolate maker. He owns Cacao Trueques in Risaralda. Meanwhile, Juan David Correa is the administrator of Finca Macondo and a phenomenal cacao grower.
Q: Traceability seems central to your philosophy. Why is it so important?
Alejandro De Angulo: Traceability of every single bean produced and marketed is of the utmost importance in our supply chain. Lots from our farms are never mixed, allowing us to guarantee our clients the origin of each bean right down to the trees. We are fully committed to providing clients with 100% single-origin cacao.
Q: How do you approach sustainability and farm management?
Alejandro De Angulo: Our production system is based on agroforestry and careful agronomic management. We control fungal diseases primarily through improved air circulation and pruning rather than fungicides. We also focus heavily on soil nutrition and biodiversity within the farm. Our long-term vision is to become an international example of ethical and sustainable cacao production while producing some of the finest cacao in the world.
Q: How do you deal with pests and diseases, and what are the biggest challenges in your area?
Alejandro De Angulo:
Fungal diseases are controlled through cultural practices instead of fungicides.
Our approach is to improve air circulation throughout the entire property. We
have been able to reduce fungal diseases by 98%, improving air circulation. This
is a technique I have taken from my golf course management background and
adapted to cacao production. The best fungicide in the world is air circulation.
Tree architecture through pruning is essential for improving air
circulation. We seek a lush, thick leaf canopy up top with an open
area around the pods below, improving air circulation around the pods.
Tree spacing is also very important for improving air circulation.
Depending on the topography of the lot, we have a 3 meters X 3 meters
spacing or a 3.5 meters x 3.5 meters spacing. In lots with wider tree
spacing, we manage trees with 5 main branches. In lots with tighter
spacing, we manage trees with 4 main branches.
Removing all barriers that block air circulation throughout the property is
also essential in improving air circulation.
Insects and pests are controlled with the use of organic pesticides made with hot
peppers, garlic, and onions.
Our biggest challenge is actually nutritional. Our soil is deficient in boron and
calcium. Both these elements are critical in fruit set fill. When deficiencies are not corrected, our cacao exhibits fluidity issues during refining. We manage nutrition very closely to avoid any deficiencies. As our agroforestry system matures, these issues correct themselves naturally.
Q: What is your long-term vision for the farm?
Alejandro De Angulo: It is to become an example in all aspects of cacao production at an international level.
Ethically producing cacao: Every employee at Finca Macondo is provided with social security, health care, a pension plan, vacation time, and a five-day work week. Our goal in this project is to achieve a deep social impact on Colombia's agricultural sector.
Reforestation of depleted agricultural land.
Production of some of the finest flavor and aroma cacao in the world. Full transparency and traceability, offering our partners a true connection to origin and aiding in their product story and narrative.
Creating an environment full of love, peace, and happiness for everyone to truly enjoy the amazing world of cacao.
Q: If you could change one thing about the cacao industry, what would it be?
Alejandro De Angulo: Cacao commoditization.
Final Thoughts
Having personally evaluated and tasted raw dried cacao beans from Cacao Macondo, I was particularly impressed by their consistency and quality. From the perspective of raw bean evaluation, several elements are essential when assessing cacao grade before chocolate production: bean size, weight, uniformity within the lot, color consistency, aroma, flavor, and the absence of defects or foreign material.
The sample bag I received was exceptionally uniform. The beans were consistent in size, weight, and color, which is surprisingly uncommon even among specialty producers. This is especially important for chocolate makers, since irregular bean size and weight can directly affect production outcome.
Equally notable was the cacao's cleanliness. In many cases, chocolate makers receiving raw cacao shipments must deal with considerable amounts of waste material in the sacks, including stones, dust, plant debris, and other contaminants that reduce the usable cacao mass and increase sorting time during production. During a visit to a chocolate maker in Paris, I witnessed firsthand the frustration caused by poor-quality deliveries containing large amounts of foreign material and inconsistent beans, ultimately leading the producer to stop sourcing from that particular farm altogether.
In contrast, Cacao Macondo demonstrated exceptional care and post-harvest attention. I found no waste material within the lot, while the beans themselves displayed strong aromatic quality, visual consistency, and excellent integrity. From my personal experience evaluating cacao beans from different origins and producers, this degree of uniformity reflects a serious commitment to quality at every stage of production.
A Note for Chocolate Lovers
One of the most interesting findings emerging from recent studies on Colombian cacao concerns the relationship between cacao genetics and the natural ratio of theobromine to caffeine in cacao beans. This ratio is often used as a biochemical indicator to distinguish major genetic groups and partially explain differences in flavor perception and aromatic character.
Criollo cacao tends to exhibit lower theobromine-to-caffeine ratios, contributing to softer bitterness, lower astringency, and a more delicate aromatic profile. In contrast, Forastero varieties generally exhibit higher theobromine concentrations and stronger bitterness, while Trinitario populations occupy an intermediate position combining aromatic complexity with greater intensity. Interestingly, the Colombian cacao populations show a predominance of Trinitario and intermediate genetic groups, together with smaller but genetically distinct Criollo clusters. This partially explains why Colombian fine-flavor cacao is often characterized by balanced sensory profiles that express fruity, floral, herbal, nutty, and chocolate notes without excessive bitterness or aggressive astringency.
For chocolate lovers, this relationship between genetics and biochemistry offers a fascinating perspective: the sensory qualities perceived in chocolate are not determined exclusively by fermentation or roasting techniques, but are deeply connected to the cacao genetics itself.
References
USDA Foreign Agricultural Service (2022). The Colombian Cacao Industry. Bogotá, Colombia.
Osorio-Guarín, J. A. et al. (2017). Colombia a Source of Cacao Genetic Diversity as Revealed by the Population Structure Analysis of Germplasm Bank of Theobroma cacao L. Frontiers in Plant Science.
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