Venezuelan Cacao: A Legacy of Heritage and Fine Flavor

In the world of fine flavor cacao, Venezuela is often regarded as the cradle of Criollo, whose delicate flavors and genetic fragility have earned it legendary status. But the story of Venezuelan cacao is far more intricate. It is a narrative shaped by colonial history, agricultural setbacks, and modern revival efforts. Beyond the romanticized tales of Porcelana and Chuao lies a deeper truth: Venezuela’s cacao heritage is a dynamic blend of tradition, science, and resilience.

The Origins of Criollo: Venezuela’s Genetic Treasure

Venezuela’s reputation as the "Holy Grail" of Criollo cacao stems from its status as the birthplace of some of the world’s purest Criollo strains. These varieties are more than agricultural commodities; they represent cultural legacies and genetic treasures that have endured for centuries.

In western Venezuela, two regions stand out for preserving these ancient varieties: the humid lowlands southwest of Lake Maracaibo, known as Sur del Lago, and the northern foothills of the Andes. These lands are home to rare Criollo cultivars, such as Porcelana, recognized for their pale-white pods and exceptional aromatic profile.

A crucial distinction exists between Criollos Antiguos (ancient Criollos) and Criollos Actuales (modern Criollo hybrids):

• Criollos Antiguos include Porcelana and Guasare, which are valued for their genetic purity, white cotyledons, and complex flavor profiles.

• Criollos Actuales include hybrids resulting from crossbreeding with Trinitario and Forastero varieties that display a mix of white and purple cotyledons, reflecting their incredible genetic heritage and offering more resilient yet still flavorful cacao.

The Decline and Revival of Cacao in Venezuela

The decline of Venezuelan cacao cultivation began in the late 19th century, coinciding with the oil boom that shifted the country’s economic priorities. By the mid-20th century, many historic plantations had been abandoned or converted to other agricultural uses. One of the most notable examples is La Molina in Mérida: a 300-hectare plantation that, until the 1930s, produced the renowned Cacao de Estanquez before being replaced by sugarcane fields. Remnants of these trees, referred to as Criollos Andinos, still survive today.

Farmers introduced more resilient varieties in response to the susceptibility to diseases and lower yields of pure criollo cultivars. The arrival of Trinitario cacao from nearby Trinidad and later Forastero cacao further diversified the genetic pool. Over time, hybrid varieties emerged, such as Ocumare 61, which maintained the essence of Criollo while being more productive and disease-resistant.

The late 20th century marked the beginning of a renewed interest in Venezuelan cacao as the global demand for high-quality cacao increased. Local entrepreneurs, cooperatives, and government programs launched efforts to restore historic plantations and support sustainable cacao farming practices.

Recent years have also seen the implementation of government policies aimed at reviving the fine cacao industry, including export incentives and support for organic agriculture. In 2022, Venezuela produced approximately 26,343 tons of cacao, aiming to increase production to 60,000 tons annually by 2025. A key initiative was the introduction of tax exemptions for cacao exports in July 2022, designed to strengthen the country’s presence in international markets.

Collaborations and Sustainable Development

The resurgence of Venezuelan cacao has been supported by international and local initiatives to empower cacao farmers, promote sustainability, and strengthen the country`s position in the global market.

• Nestlé’s Cocoa Plan: Nestlé has operated its Cocoa Plan in Venezuela since 2013, aiming to support local cacao production through technical assistance, seedling distribution, and training in sustainable agricultural practices. According to official figures published by Nestlé Venezuela in October 2024, the program has delivered over 1,065,000 cacao plants, conducted nearly 14,800 training sessions, and made more than 57,000 technical visits to directly assist 2,297 farmers across the cacao-producing states of Sucre, Monagas, Miranda, Mérida, Táchira, Trujillo, and Zulia.

  The initiative promotes regenerative agriculture by encouraging the use of organic fertilizers and providing guidance on managing diseases such as Escoba de Bruja (witch’s broom), which significantly impacts local yields. Nestlé also claims to be calculating CO₂ sequestration rates from newly planted trees and has distributed over 250,000 liters of organic fertilizer to reduce reliance on conventional alternatives. The program includes support for post-harvest handling and aims to improve traceability to boost the value of Venezuelan cacao in international markets. According to Nestlé’s official supply chain disclosures (2019–2023), the Cocoa Plan is active in specific Venezuelan cacao-growing regions such as the Llanura de Barlovento, the Península de Paria, and the Sur del Lago area, working in partnership with local cooperatives, including APROCAO. However, third-party certification schemes like Rainforest Alliance or UTZ do not verify Venezuelan cocoa. Instead, Nestlé considers it 'responsibly sourced' based solely on its internal Cocoa Plan criteria: a notable contrast to the standards applied in Africa or Ecuador (Nestlé responsible sourcing definitions 2020). Furthermore, Nestlé includes a disclaimer in its supply chain documents stating that the data may not be exhaustive or fully accurate, further weakening its credibility. This issue is particularly relevant in light of a detailed case study produced at the Watson Institute for International and Public Affairs at Brown University (Case 15-06, Madeleine Wood, 2015). The report investigated Nestlé’s global cocoa strategy and raised serious concerns about the credibility of the Nestlé Cocoa Plan, especially in West Africa. Among the key findings were inconsistencies between public commitments and actual outcomes, reliance on selective certification (like Fairtrade), limited supply chain transparency, and documented cases of child labor. The study also criticized Nestlé’s use of the Fair Labor Association as a weak monitoring mechanism, pointing out that its audits focused only on Cocoa Plan farms, thus failing to reflect broader supply chain realities. In this context, even the detailed metrics released in Venezuela do little to dispel the broader doubts surrounding the Nestlé Cocoa Plan. Given the company’s global history of opacity, selective certification, and continued child labor issues, these figures raise doubts. They seem more like corporate messaging than clear evidence of accountable progress.

  
  

• Proyecto Venezuela Tierra de Cacao: This initiative, funded by the European Union, seeks to strengthen the cacao and chocolate ecosystem in Venezuela by supporting small and medium-scale producers, empowering women and youth, and fostering biodiversity conservation. Operating in six states - Aragua, Carabobo, Lara, Mérida, Miranda, and Sucre - the project has established training units, launched local chocolate collections, and introduced a certification for sustainable cacao entrepreneurs. Reports indicate that over 600 women, 1,600 youth, and 134 teachers have received training, contributing to the promotion of fine flavor cacao production. However, the long-term sustainability of the initiative depends heavily on continued funding and institutional support, which remain uncertain given Venezuela’s volatile economic and political environment.

Several institutions have emerged as key players in the research, conservation, and promotion of Criollo cacao in Venezuela:

• Centro Nacional de Investigación, Desarrollo e Innovación del Cacao: Established in 2024 in Acevedo, Miranda state, this center is dedicated to advancing cacao production through scientific research, technological innovation, and support services tailored to cacao farmers. The CIDIC conducts studies on soil fertility, pest control, and genetic conservation while collaborating with over 30,000 cacao producers across the country. As a newly founded public institution, however, its long-term effectiveness remains to be seen. The center’s state management may also impact transparency and operational efficiency, particularly where bureaucratic hurdles have historically hampered agricultural innovation.

  
  

• Comité Nacional Técnico-Científico del Cacao: Managed by the Ministry of Popular Power for Science and Technology, this committee coordinates cacao research and development through six regional subcommittees: Occidente, Llanos, Centro Occidente, Central, Oriente, and Guayana. These subcommittees implement local research initiatives and organize training programs for cacao farmers, promoting practices adapted to the diverse agroecological conditions across Venezuela.

  Established in 2002, the committee brings together approximately 200 researchers and institutional representatives to preserve the genetic integrity of Venezuelan cacao. A key focus has been preventing the introduction and spread of non-native clones such as CCN-51. Nevertheless, the illegal dissemination of CCN-51 continues to pose a serious threat, highlighting the need for more robust enforcement, monitoring, and education to safeguard native varietals.

  
  

• Corporación Socialista del Cacao Venezolano S.A.: Established in 2010, the CSCV registers and trains cacao producers while promoting the cultivation and commercialization of high-quality cacao. It supports cacao farmers through infrastructure development, quality control measures, and educational workshops. It has helped over 10,000 cacao farmers access new markets and improve production techniques, contributing to the global recognition of Venezuelan fine flavor cacao production. But, as a state-run entity, the CSCV is exposed to risks associated with inefficiency, limited transparency, and bureaucratic inertia. Factors that may hinder competitiveness and innovation within the cacao sector.

The Iconic Regions of Venezuelan Cacao

Each cacao-growing region in Venezuela holds a distinct history and legacy, contributing to the country’s reputation as the cradle of fine flavor cacao. Below is an overview of the most iconic regions:

• Sur del Lago (Lake Maracaibo): Located southwest of Lake Maracaibo and spanning the states of Zulia, Mérida, Táchira, and Trujillo, Sur del Lago remains one of Venezuela’s most historically important cacao-growing areas. The region is renowned as the birthplace of Porcelana Cacao. In the past, cacao cultivated in this area was commercially labeled “Maracaibo,” a designation that reflected its purity and prestige.

  Over time, the genetic landscape has evolved into a complex mix. Today’s cacao reflects a natural hybridization involving Porcelana, Mérida Criollo, and Guasare, crossed with Trinitario and Forastero. A commercial classification known as Sur del Lago Clasificado refers to this blend of historically rooted Criollo strains and later hybrid varieties selected for resilience and productivity. The region remains central to Venezuela’s cacao economy, with farmers organized into key micro-zones and research stations working to conserve Criollo germplasm and promote sustainable cultivation methods.

• Sierra de Perijá (Guasare): Situated near the Colombian border in the western Andes, the Sierra de Perijá is home to the Guasare River and the genetically pure Guasare cacao: one of the rarest and most valuable Criollo types still cultivated. Guasare is believed to descend directly from early domesticated Criollo trees and is notable for its white cotyledons and refined flavor. A state-run experimental station is dedicated to preserving this variety, while the region’s mountainous isolation has helped maintain its genetic integrity by limiting hybridization.

• Chuao: This isolated coastal village is accessible only by boat and is home to approximately 140 hectares of cultivated cacao, managed by a local cooperative. Chuao is historically tied to Criollo cacao introduced by Spanish settlers from Central America and is one of the most renowned cacao origins in the world. Despite past hybridizations with Trinitario and Forastero, Chuao cacao has preserved unique post-harvest traditions, including sun-drying on the church square. The cooperative model, inherited techniques, and geographical isolation contribute to its elite reputation in Europe and beyond.

• Ocumare de la Costa: Located in a hidden valley along the Cordillera de la Costa, Ocumare has long been considered a major origin for Criollo cacao. In the 1940s, Venezuelan researchers selected disease-tolerant Criollo strains and developed Ocumare 61, a hybrid variety praised for its fruity, buttery profile and resilience. This genetic line has since been planted in other regions of the country. Ocumare still produces cacao, highly sought after for its flavor and historical significance.

• Barlovento: Positioned northeast of Caracas, Barlovento is a coastal region once associated with “Caracas cacao”. Its most well-known cacao today is Carenero Superior, a Trinitario type recognized for its fruity aroma and aromatic persistence. Formerly prosperous plantations like Hacienda La Concepción, abandoned in the early 20th century, were revitalized in the 1990s.

• Paria Peninsula: Located at Venezuela’s easternmost point, this region has a long history of cacao cultivation, especially under Corsican immigrants in the 19th century. The cacao here is primarily a Criollo–Forastero hybrid, developed for disease resistance and suitability for low-shade farming. Despite its hybrid origin, the cacao retains aromatic finesse from its Criollo ancestry. The cacao was historically shipped through the port of Carúpano and is now commercially referred to as Río Caribe, characterized by bold, fruity flavors and a robust profile.

Legislative Efforts, Challenges, and the Future of Venezuelan Cacao

In February 2024, Venezuela's National Assembly unanimously approved the first reading of the "Proyecto de Ley del Cacao", a legislative initiative aimed at strengthening, protecting, and developing the cultivation, processing, production, and exportation of cacao. 

Key objectives of the bill include:

• Preserving the genetic diversity of Theobroma cacao L.

• Promoting sustainable agricultural practices and innovation within the cacao sector.

• Enhancing the productivity of small, medium, and large-scale cacao producers.

• Establishing a national cacao brand to boost international competitiveness.

• Simplifying administrative procedures related to cacao production and exportation.

• Declaring Venezuelan cacao as a national, natural, ancestral, and touristic heritage.

• Creating a National Cacao Fund to support producers and related activities.

• Fostering the development of agro-industrial value chains associated with cacao.

  
  

Despite these legislative advancements, the Venezuelan cacao sector continues to face significant challenges. Political instability, economic sanctions, and limited access to international markets have hindered growth and investment. Additionally, infrastructural deficiencies and resource shortages pose obstacles to efficient production and distribution.

To address these issues, stakeholders have initiated dialogues emphasizing the importance of cooperation and clear policy frameworks. The establishment of negotiation platforms for cacao producers aims to develop strategies that tackle resource constraints and encourage innovation, thereby promoting a more resilient and sustainable cacao industry in Venezuela.

The Cultural Significance of Venezuelan Cacao

Cacao is more than an export: it is a symbol of cultural identity. In coastal villages like Chuao and Choroní, cacao festivals celebrate this heritage with music, dance, and rituals passed down through generations. However, in some regions, cacao trees now stand as ornamental relics in residential gardens... a reminder of a bygone era.

Efforts to recover these "lost" Criollo cultivars have sparked initiatives to document and propagate these rare trees. The future of Venezuelan cacao depends on balancing preservation with innovation. As the demand for transparency, traceability, and sustainability grows, Venezuelan producers have a unique opportunity to leverage their rich heritage. However, this requires continued investment in education, support for local farmers, and a commitment to maintaining the genetic purity that sets Venezuelan cacao apart.

In a world where fine chocolate consumers seek authenticity and origin stories, Venezuela's cacao narrative is a testament to resilience and excellence. Whether through the rare elegance of Porcelana or the bold complexity of Río Caribe, Venezuelan cacao continues to inspire and remind us of the power behind every cacao tree.

Final Thoughts

Venezuelan cacao holds a symbolic weight far beyond its sensory allure. But the survival of this legacy depends not only on romantic narratives or rare genetics: it requires structural support, policy clarity, and international collaboration rooted in trust and transparency.

For those of us who taste, work with, or promote fine flavor cacao, the responsibility is twofold: to celebrate what makes it extraordinary, and to remain vigilant about the gaps that still prevent its full potential from being realized.

Origin alone is not a guarantee of quality. But in Venezuela’s case, it remains a call to action: a reminder that heritage, if truly valued, must be protected, nurtured, and held to account.

References

• Asamblea Nacional (2024). Official discussion of the Cacao Law Project.

• El Tiempo (2022): El Gobierno de Venezuela busca fortalecer la investigación y producción de cacao.

• Nestlé Plan Cacao: 11 years promoting the development of the sector in Venezuela

• Centro Nacional de Investigación, Desarrollo e Innovación del Cacao

• Comité Nacional Técnico-Científico del Cacao

• Producers receive training to preserve Venezuelan cocoa

• Corporación Socialista del Cacao Venezolano S.A.

Photo Credits: Andrii Grechanyi