The Evolution of the Bean to Bar Movement: A Look Back at Its Roots and Standards

Understanding Bean to Bar: What Does It Mean?

When you hear “Bean to Bar,” you might think it’s just another fancy label. But it represents a shift in how we think about chocolate. This term captures a philosophy that begins with how cacao is cultivated and extends to how its flavors are revealed in chocolate, bridging ethical farming and artisanal craftsmanship.

It is defined by:

• Agriculture rooted in sustainability: Practices prioritize environmental and community health, supporting biodiversity and responsible land use.

• an artisanal approach to chocolate-making that prioritizes the bean’s authentic characteristics and complexity, unmasked by additives, flavoring, and large-scale processing.

Unlike mass-market chocolate, which typically relies on commodity cacao, bean to bar chocolate focuses only on fine flavor cacao. This category encompasses diverse, high-quality cacao varieties prized for their genetics and complex flavor profiles.

Commodity cacao is typically chosen for its resilience and ease of cultivation in large, monoculture plantations that don’t prioritize biodiversity or sustainable practices like agroforestry. While efficient, this approach generally sacrifices flavor. It can lead to exploitative labor practices, such as underpaid or child labor, due to the focus on maximizing yields, minimizing costs, and standardizing flavors.

In contrast, craft chocolate makers source fine flavor cacao grown in agroforestry systems that preserve biodiversity and emphasize sustainable practices. By supporting fair wages and environmental health, they produce chocolate that celebrates the inherent qualities of cacao, providing consumers with a complex and authentic tasting experience.

The Beginnings of the Bean to Bar Movement in the United States: The Role of Scharffen Berger

The modern chocolate movement in the U.S. was pioneered by Robert Steinberg and John Scharffenberger, co-founders of Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker, in 1996. They were the first American chocolate makers to label their bars with the percentage of cacao, a practice that not only informed consumers but also underscored their commitment to transparency and quality.

Dissatisfied with the limitations of industrial chocolate and inspired by fine chocolate makers in Europe, they set out to highlight quality cacao and traditional chocolate-making techniques, shifting the focus from quantity to quality.

Scharffen Berger’s influence extended beyond their product innovations. Their emphasis on small-batch, artisanal production methods and sourcing high-quality cacao inspired a generation of American chocolate makers. Even after Scharffen Berger was acquired by Hershey in 2005, the company’s original ethos influenced the broader craft chocolate movement.

Craft Chocolate Makers of America: Defining Standards for Bean to Bar Chocolate

As the new modern approach to chocolate gained momentum, there was a need to establish standards for chocolate makers in the United States. This led to the creation of the Craft Chocolate Makers of America, an association founded by key figures in the industry, including Amano Chocolate, Askinosie Chocolate, DeVries Chocolate, Patric Chocolate, and Taza Chocolate.

This group worked to establish a shared set of values for American chocolate makers, focusing on integrity, quality, and respect for traditional methods.

The CCMA established several key standards for its members:

• Starting from the Bean: Every member committed to producing chocolate directly from raw cacao beans, without using pre-processed ingredients.

• Small-Batch Production: Members focused on small-scale production, typically using between 1 and 200 metric tons of cacao annually, allowing for greater attention to quality.

• Independent Ownership: Members were required to be U.S.-owned companies, with at least 75% ownership held by individuals directly involved in chocolate production, ensuring hands-on dedication.

• Traditional Crafting Methods: Members used traditional techniques, including batch roasting, winnowing, refining, and tempering, with proficiency in each step handled in-house. A trained chocolate maker or employee was required to oversee the entire production process to uphold these artisanal standards.

• Established Experience: Applicants needed at least one year of Bean to Bar products available in the market, ensuring they had industry experience.

• Ethical Sourcing: Members were expected to source high-quality cacao ethically, with transparent supply chains.

While the CCMA has since disbanded - a fact confirmed by Amano Artisan Chocolate's founders - its values continue to influence the specialty chocolate sector. The association’s commitment to ethical sourcing, traditional methods, and quality standards set a legacy that remains foundational for many craft chocolate makers today.

Amano Ocumare 70%

Amano Ocumare 70%

The European Influence: Valrhona and the Rise of Single Origin Chocolate

While the chocolate revolution gained momentum in the U.S., European chocolate makers were already redefining the way consumers perceive chocolate. In 1984, Bonnat introduced the first single origin chocolate bar, sparking a newfound appreciation for the diversity and complexity of cacao.

In 1992, Valrhona launched its iconic Manjari 64%, crafted exclusively from Madagascar cacao and prominently labeled with its origin. This milestone set a new benchmark for transparency in chocolate production and inspired a deeper connection between chocolate and its terroir.

Around the same time, El Rey took the concept of single-origin chocolate a step further, specifying the country of origin and the region. For instance, their bars highlighted specific Venezuelan regions such as Barlovento and Caranero Superior, showcasing the unique characteristics of each.

Other European pioneers, such as Michel Cluizel, Pralus, and Amedei, played a pivotal role in elevating chocolate into a realm of intentional craftsmanship and authenticity. Their dedication to highlighting the nuances of fine flavor cacao laid the foundation for what would become a global movement. These makers transformed chocolate from a confection into a narrative: a product that tells the story of its origins, its makers, and the land from which it comes.

In my view, these visionary chocolate makers sought to educate consumers and position chocolate as a product that commands respect deserving the same thoughtful engagement typically reserved for other fine foods. While they succeeded in inspiring makers around the world and raising awareness of cacao's immense potential, the broader consumer market has been slower to embrace these values,

In 2024, the challenge of fostering widespread appreciation for single origin chocolate persists. This underscores the ongoing effort required to achieve the ambitious goals set by these trailblazers.

Bean to Bar Today: Expansion Through New Associations and Modern Practices

The spirit of specialty chocolate has continued to grow worldwide, with numerous associations emerging in countries such as France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal. These groups share a common goal: promoting the values of quality, transparency, and ethical sourcing while fostering a supportive community of chocolate makers.

However, it’s important to note that these associations do not hold legal or institutional authority, as the fine chocolate sector remains unregulated globally. Unlike industrial chocolate, which operates under broader industry standards, craft chocolate is not formally recognized as a distinct and specialized category.

This lack of formal recognition means that the challenges and practices of the mass-market sector can directly influence and impact smaller-scale production.

Despite these limitations, the movement's adaptability remains one of its strengths. While some makers maintain direct relationships with farmers, others rely on specialized distributors like Uncommon Cacao and Silva Cacao to access ethically sourced, high-quality cacao beans. This approach enables even smaller producers to uphold high-quality standards without the logistical challenges of direct sourcing, reflecting the resilience and creativity of this growing community.

Conclusion: Challenging the Traditional Perception of Chocolate

The bean to bar movement is fundamentally redefining how we perceive chocolate, moving away from the idea of it as merely a sweet treat or guilty pleasure that should be consumed sparingly. Unlike products such as wine, coffee, or beer which, even at lower quality levels, are widely enjoyed and appreciated around the world, chocolate has historically been dismissed as candy, laden with sugar and lacking complexity.

For decades, mass-market chocolate has been dominated by brands producing highly processed chocolate bars with flat, and overly sweet flavor profiles often overshadowing the true character of cacao. Candy bars and low-quality dark chocolate made with commodity cacao have led consumers to associate chocolate with bitterness or burnt flavors, without the multi-layered sensory experience that fine flavor cacao can offer.

The craft chocolate niche is opening a Pandora’s box for consumers, unveiling a side of chocolate that has long been hidden. Just as people understand that wine comes from grapes and coffee from coffee beans, the specialty chocolate industry invites consumers to make the essential connection: chocolate originates from cacao pods and the premium beans inside. This realization is transformative, challenging the deeply ingrained perception of chocolate as a morsel or a tasty tidbit.

The bean to bar culture dispels the common perception of chocolate as a grab-and-go snack item. Instead, it highlights its origins, depth, and potential for refinement - qualities that echo the sophistication of fine wine - and invites consumers to see it as an experience rather than a quick fix.

By encouraging this shift, the movement reconnects consumers with chocolate’s true value, not as something assembled in a lab, but as an agricultural product with its terroir, history, and artistry. The revolutionary promise of the fine chocolate community is nothing short of a flavor revelation uncovering the real character of chocolate and stripping away misconceptions to reveal its authentic taste. This means encountering unexpected, complex flavor profiles that redefine the ordinary notes associated with chocolate. It is about reshaping the consumer`s palate, inviting them to taste chocolate as it is meant to be.

Photo Credits:

Images courtesy of Kurt.